Serving Up Marco Pierre White

And the whole psycho-chef craze. Here's Tom Jaine's assessment from the Guardian:

[W]e are soggy enough to allow the whip-hand of exploitation to chefs in their kitchens as if the ends of fancy cooking ever justified the means adopted by abusers such as White or the abused-turned-abuser Ramsay (described here as reduced by MPW to a blubbering wreck). These braggadocio chefs have it mighty wrong. Years ago, Lord Nelson showed our hang'em and flog'em Royal Navy the way of compassion and today there are many kitchens turning out the best of food where dysfunctional personalities do not rule.

Not sure how I feel about bringing the navy into the discussion, but maybe that is the point.