Monday, August 29, 2005
Tuesday, August 23, 2005
װאָס שאַט אײַך אַ קאַלטע באָרשטש
„שױן קאַלטע קאַװע!“ האָט מען געזאָגט בײַ אַ חבֿרטע אונדזערער אין דער הײם װען עס איז שױן צו שפּעט, מע קאָן מער נישט פּועלן, אַ ברכה־לבֿטלה. פֿון אַנדערע האָב איך אױך געהערט „שױן קאַלטע לאָקשן“ (יוסף גורי (2002) גיט צו אױך „קאַלטע באַנקעס”) עס קומט מיר פֿאָר אַז פֿון די צװײ אױסדרוקן קאָן מען אַרױסדרינגען אַז ייִדן װאָס רעדן ייִדיש האָבן אַ קולינאַרישע קולטור װאָס האָט אין גאַנצן ניט געװוּסט פֿון כינעזישע לאָקשן מיט קונזשוט (סעזאַם) אָדער קאַלטע קאַװע. אָבער אַ קאַלטער קאַװע קאָן זײַן זײער געשמאַק— דאָ אין ניו־יאָרק װאַרט מען צװאַנציק מינוט אין רײ און באַצאָלט זעקס דאָלאַר פֿאַר אַ „פֿראַפּוטשינאָ“ און קאַלטע סעזאַם־לאָקשן — װאָס דאַרפֿט איר מער?
אַ טײַערע חבֿרטע אונדזערע פֿלעגט זאָגן װעגן אַ נישט־סימפּאַטישן „ער (אָדער זי, געװײנטלעך זי) איז אַ קאַלטע באָרשטש!“ איך פֿאַרשטײ אַז פֿאַר אַ מענטשן, איז קאַלטקײט נישט קײן מעלה, אָבער װאָס איז בעסער װי אַ קאַלטע באָרשטש? אַ באָרשטש פֿול מיט טעם און אַנטיאָקסידאַנטן?
װען איך װאָלט געװאָלט לױבן אַ טײַערן מענטש װאָלט איך אים דװקא געגליכן צו אַ קאַלטער באָרשטש.
איך פֿאַרשטײ, אָבער, אַז קאַלטע באַנקעס טױגן אין גאַנצן נישט.
מאַכט קאַלטע קאַװע
מאַכט קאַלטע לאָקשן
(איך ניץ שױו אַנשטאָט טאַמאַרי גן־עדן (Eden Select) איז צװװישן די בעסטע)
Guri, Yosef. Vos Darft Ir Mer? (2000 Idiomatic Expressions in Yiddish). Jerusalem: Hebrew University Department of Russian and Slavic Studies, 2002.
August breakfast salad
Two or so fresh ripe peaches (so that the peaches are more or less equal in
volume to the tomato)
Scald and peel the tomato (required); remove the seeds.
Scald and peel the peaches (optional); remove the stones.
Cut the fruit over the serving bowl to catch all the heady perfumed juices.
Dress with a drizzle of olive oil and just a drop of balsamic vinegar.
Sprinkle with a pinch of kosher salt. Serves two.
This recipe appears in Yiddish here
דער רעצעפּט געפֿינט זיך אױף ייִדיש דאָ
And here is Pablo Neruda's Ode to a Tomato
Labels: Cooking for Karina (non-allergenic), peysekhdik פּסחדיק
Monday, August 22, 2005
The Chocolate Lady’s Shabes Nakhamu Survival Guide
The correct method for grating potatoes ala Isakova
First of all, a box grater makes shreds that are too coarse. You need a wire grater to grate the potatoes into mush. These wire graters are not too easy to come by, but Natasha suggests trying hardware stores in Jewish neighborhoods. The second important point is that the potato must be grated in the correct order. You must first grip the potato by what I’ll call its North Pole and start grating the South Pole. Continue grating until you get to the equator. At this point, rotate the potato so that you are grating parallel to the axis and the longitudinal lines, and grate on four sides so that you now have a four-sided plinth with a rounded top. Grip the rounded top and grate all the way down until you are left with the smallest possible spud nubbins. The Latke recipe will be in a subsequent issue.
This week, I have been reading Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s THE ITALIAN COUNTRY TABLE with great interest. I made the spicy spinach recipe in which you combine wilted spinach with onions, garlic, tomato and a chile pepper. I make something similar to this with collard greens, but it had not occurred to me that it would work so well with spinach. I had it with some whole-wheat pasta, one araucana egg, a few grindings of pepper and parmesan over the egg, and a rare mid-week glass of wine (Cốtes du Rhone).
I was especially interested to read Kasper’s comments on peeling tomatoes. I have always plunged tomatoes briefly into boiling water to loosen the skins, but Kasper says that you lose too much tomato flavor this way and suggests either blistering the tomatoes over a gas flame, or just cooking them together with their skins and then putting them through a food mill.
I tried the blistering method, but the tomatoes got a little too cooked, so I’m sticking with the imperfect scalding method for now. I have found that you can peel certain very ripe tomatoes without any scalding or blistering at all.
"The Chocolate Lady’s Shabes Nakhamu Survival Guide" is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. You may share it with folks if you like, but only in its entirety including this notice. Any other form of republication, unless with prior written permission of the author, is strictly prohibited. Copyright © 2005 by Eve Jochnowitz.
Questions? Comments? ASK THE CHOCOLATE LADY!
Kasper, Lynne Rossetto. The Italian Country Table : Home Cooking from Italy's Farmhouse Kitchens. New York: Scribner, 1999.
Labels: peysekhdik פּסחדיק
Sunday, August 21, 2005
Wednesday, August 17, 2005
גרינע פּאַטלעזשאַנעס
פּאָמידאָרן פֿון פּז
די װאָך האָבן מיר באַקומען פֿונעם אַגריקולטורעלן קאָלעקטיװ זון־גאָלד פּאָמידאָרן. זײ זענען זיס װי צוקערקעלעך. פֿון אײן זײַט װיל איך מאַכן רעצעפּטן פֿאַר זײ, אָבער זײ זענען אַזױ גוט פּשוט װי זײ שטײען און גײען.
פּז POZ Gingold, fine gold, four-score and seven
Sunday, August 14, 2005
Friday, August 12, 2005
The Chocolatatouille Lady’s Shabes Dvorim Survival Guide
This is the week. I fantasize about this week all year. This is Ratatouille Week. My CSA basket this week was an all but perfect ratatouille starter-kit (I needed to supplement the tomato—we got one apiece). We got a black bell eggplant, seven adorable little zucchini, six new summer onions, lipstick sweet peepers and a tomato.
1 black bell eggplant (slightly over 2 pounds)
7 small zucchini (slightly under 2 pounds)
8 smallish onions (I didn’t weigh them, but in the ballpark of 2 pounds)
5 large cloves garlic
7 lipstick sweet peppers
6 very ripe medium tomatoes
1 large green jalapeno
extra-virgin olive oil
small bunch parsley (1/3 cup chopped leaves)
small branch dried oregano (1/2 teaspoon)
Cut the eggplant into ¾ inch dice. Lightly salt the cubes with kosher salt and place in a colander to drain.
Slice the zucchini into ¼ inch rounds. Lightly salt the slices with kosher salt and place in a second colander or strainer to drain.
Slice the onion into thin half-moons.
Slice the garlic into slivers (do not chop or mince the garlic).
Scald, peel and seed the tomatoes and cut into chunks.
Slice the jalapeno down one side. Remove seeds and ribs, but leave whole.
Broil 5 of the whole peppers on a sheet of aluminum foil under the broiler. Rotate them so that they are lightly charred but not burned on each side. Fold the foil around the peppers to seal them in and set aside to cool. When they are cool enough to touch, remove the skins.
Peel the other two peppers and julienne.
Heat oil in a cast-iron skillet. Sear the eggplant pieces over medium-high heat. Remove eggplant from skillet and set aside.
Add a little more oil to skillet if needed. Sauté over medium-high heat, and set aside.
(you can have more than one skillet going at once, or you can prepare some of the vegetables in advance and assemble the ratatouille the next day)
Heat some more oil in the skillet turn heat to as low as it can go without going out. Add the onions and stir and cook for several minutes. When the onions are relaxed and golden. add the sliced garlic, the jalapeno, and sliced raw peppers and stir and cook for about five minutes. Raise the heat slightly. Add the eggplant, and a little while later, the zucchini, stir, stir, and then the tomatoes and the broiled peppers. Raise the heat a little more. Cook, stirring occasionally about another 30 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.
And watermelons. How about those watermelons? I love the sound a watermelon makes when you first cut into it. It’s somewhere between a sigh and a groan and a creaking door. I think that the watermelon is saying that it feel so good, finally, to get out of that shell.
And sweet corn.
Blah Blah Blah
"The Chocolate Lady’s Shabes Dvorim Survival Guide" is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. You may share it with folks if you like, but only in its entirety including this notice. Any other form of republication, unless with prior written permission of the author, is strictly prohibited. Copyright © 2005 by The Chocolate Lady.
Questions? Comments? ASK THE CHOCOLATE LADY!
Labels: A garden deriv'd and defin'd שהחינו וקימנו והגיענו לזמן הזה, peysekhdik פּסחדיק
בעל־הביתטע זיסינקע
טוט אַ קוק אױף„Sabbath Meals”
אַ שײנינקע בלאָג פֿון „בעל־הביתטע.“ געשמאַקע פּירושים װעגן עסן, ייִדישקײט, פּינגװינען, און אפֿילו „האַרי פּאָטער“
Thursday, August 11, 2005
װײַטערע באָרטשטש־בשׂורות
אַ שײנעם דאַנק מענדל כּהנען פֿאַרן בריװעלע װעגן דעם קאַרגן װאָס עסט לעקעך מיט באָרשטש. זעט די קאָמענטאַרן פֿון 9 אױגוסט.
Wednesday, August 10, 2005
געפֿונען נאָך „באָרשטש“-שפּריכװערטער
אינעם בלאָג־אײנס פֿון נעכטן און אין דעם פֿון הײַנט, גיב איך איבער שפּריכװערטער פֿון בערנשטײנען װאָס דערמאָנען באָרשטש מיט בערנשטײנס אײגענע דערקלערונגען. די דערקלערונגען זענען אַ מאָל אַפֿילו בעסער װי די שפּריכװערטער אַלײן.
אַז אַ בײזע בעל־הביתטע לײגט אײַן קרױט און שטעלט באָרשטש, װערן בײדע זױער.
װעלװעלער װי באָרשטש
קען זי אומעטום באַקומען
אַז אַ קאַרגער װערט מילד, עסט ער באָרשטש מיט לעקעך
[דאָס שפּריכװאָרט װערט נישט גלאָסירט בײַ בערנשטײנען. אפֿשר דאָס װאָס ער עסט באָרשטש װײַזט אָן אַז ער איז נאָך אַ קאַרגער, און דאָס װאָס ער עסט מיט לעקעך װײַזט אָן אַז ער איז געװאָרן מילד? צי װײסט עמעצער?]
שׂרה! עפּעס אַ גוטער באָרשטש? —„אָט! אַבי אַן עס!”
דערמיט װיל דאָס װײַב דעם מאַן פֿאָרבערײטען, אַז ער זאָל זיך נישט בײזערן, װען דער באָרשטש װעט ניט זײַן גאַנץ געראָטן.
דאָס שפּריכװאָרט (װערטער) saying
דערמאָנען to mention
בײז bad, malicious
װאָלװל cheap
▼פֿאָרבערײטען –זעט װאָרענען
װאָרענען to warn
Bernstein, Ignacy, and Binjamin Wolf Segel. Yudishe Shprikhverter Un Redensarten. Warsaw, 1908.
Tuesday, August 09, 2005
שפּריכװערטער פֿון בערנשטײנען װאָס דערמאָנען באָרשטש
אודך איז אַ באָרשטש.
אַזױ זאָגט אַ שטאַרקער עסער װאָס פֿאַרלאַנגט נאָך דער ערשטער שיסל באָרשטש אַ צװײטע און אפֿשר נאָך אַ דריטע, און בערופֿט זיך אױף דעם פּסוק „אודך“ (אין הלל) װאָס אַז מען האָט אים שױן אָפּגעזאָגט, שטײט נאָך אַ מאָל „אודך.“
When we finish saying "oydkho" in Hallel, we say it again, just as when we finish a bowl of borshtsh, we want another
מיט אײן אײ קען מען אַ גאַנצע שיסל באָרשטש פֿאַרװײַסן.
ד"ה אַ קלײניקײט קען אַ מאָל האָבן אַ גרױסע װירקונג.
פֿון װאַנען זאָל אַ גוטער ייִד װיסן אַז באָרשטש איז רױט?
גוטע ייִדן זענען געװײנטלעך אין מלי־דעלמאַ װײניק באַקאַנט. דעריבער האָט אַ רביצען גאָר ניט געװוּנדערט אַז איר מאַן װײסט אַפֿילו ניט, װאָס פֿאַר אַ פֿאַרב דער באָרשטש האָט.
[אַלע דערקלערונגען זענען בערנשטײנס אַלײן]
▼בערופֿן זיך — זעט פֿאַררופֿן
פֿאַררופֿן to cite
Sunday, August 07, 2005
The Shtshocolate Lady’shtsh shtshabes mashtshay (shtshav!) shtshurvival guide
If you are reading this, I suspect that like me, you may have spent much of the last week immersed in Di geviksn velt in yidish (Plant Names in Yiddish) by Dr. Mordkhe Schaechter(Schaechter 2005). Perhaps, like me, you are also trying to find ways to use all thirteen synonyms for “potato” in sentences without drawing undue attention. The real windfall for culinary logomanes, however, turns out to be the family of synonyms for “sorrel” or Rumex Acetosa and R. Acetosella (Garden Sorrel and sheep sorrel. None of these sorrel species are any relation to Hibiscus, which in the
Shtshav, shtshavéy, kvasetes, shtshuf, khtshuf, shtshàvye, shtshavél, hozn shtshavél, shtshavl, tsvey, tshakhets, shtsha, tshakhets, shtshave, shtshaver and the archaic ámper.
In Yiddish and in English, Shtshav or “schav” is the word both for the vegetable and cold sour soup in which it is the main ingredient.
Shtshav would seem to have much in common with its better-known cousin, borshtsh: Coolness, sourness, soupiness, that awesome consonant cluster, and yet, fewer people make shtshav, or have even heard of it. I love the green stuff, but I don’t prepare it nearly as often as borshtsh. Beets are available almost all year and sorrel just for a few weeks. Sorrel also has a much shorter shelf-life. You have to decide to use it within a day or so of getting it home.
Shtshav
3 or 4 bunches sorrel, about one pound
4 eggs
3 green summer onions, or regular onions
salt and lemon juice to taste
Cook one cup of poppy seeds in two cups of water. Allow to simmer for ten minutes. Blend the water and poppy seeds until milky, and strain.
You can order Plant Names in Yiddish from The Workman's Circle bookshop or the Center for Jewish History bookshop
Blah Blah Blah
"The Chocolate Lady’s Shabes Masay Survival Guide" is protected by
copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. You may share it with folks if you like, but only in its entirety including this notice. Any other form of republication, unless with prior written permission of the author, is strictly prohibited. Copyright © 2005 by Eve Jochnowitz.
Questions? Comments? ASK THE CHOCOLATE LADY!
Schaechter, Mordkhe. 2005. Di geviksn velt in yidish (Plant names in Yiddish). New York: YIVO Institute for Jewish Research.
Thursday, August 04, 2005
שאַלװיע-לימאָנאַדע פֿאַר קלײן און גרױס
עס פֿרײט מיך זײער װען קינדער קומען צו גאַסט. אַז זײ ברענגען מיט די עלטערן איז מה טובֿ. נעכטן האָב איך געמאַכט פֿאַר חבֿרים קלײן און גרױס אַ שאַלװיע-לימאָנאַדע.
5 שאַלװיע-בלעטער
¼ טעפּל צוקער
¼ טעפּל האָניק
3 לימענעס
1 גרינע לימענע
זאַלץ אױפֿן שפּיץ מעסער
לײגט די שאַלװיע-בלעטער, צוקער, און האָניק אַרײַן אין אַ קריגעלע פֿון צװײ קװאָרטן (2 ליטער). גיסט אײן טעפּל קאָכעדיק װאַסער אױף זײ. גיט צו זאַפֿט פֿון די לימענעס און דער גרינער לימענע און אַ ביסל זאַלץ. גיסט אָן ביז פֿול דאָס קריגעלע מיט אײַז און װאַסער.
שאַלװיע sage
Labels: peysekhdik פּסחדיק
ראַזעװע ספּאַגעטי מיט סטרוטשקעס און ניס
1 טעפּל געריבענע פּאַרמעזאַן קעז
פּוטער
פּעטרושקע
זאַלץ און פֿעפֿער צום טעם
1 פֿונט סטרוטשקעס (גרינע פֿאַסאָליעס, לאָפּאַטקעלעך, סטרוטשקע־באָב)
צורײשן Sauté
איבערזײַען Strain
די פּעטרישקע Parsley
Tuesday, August 02, 2005
The Chocolate Lady’s Shabes Mates (abundant zucchini) Survival Guide 2005 In Memory of Rae Dalven z”l
My friend Rae Dalven of blessed memory has been much on my mind of late. Rae Dalven was a professor of English at
Rae Dalven was born in
Rae has been much in my mind of late because I suddenly remember the zucchini dish she used to prepare. It was made with lots of zucchini, and just a few eggs, a bunch of dill, salt to taste and I think that’s all. Oh, and cheese, but you may leave that out. It was very fresh and cooling and summery. It is perfect for this time of year. I don't have her original recipe on hand, but there is a very similar recipe in the Cookbook of the Jews of Greece by Nicholas Stavrolakis that helped to jog my memory.
Romaniote Zucchini
2 pounds zucchini (grated)
4 eggs
1 pound ricotta
some parmesan
1 small bunch of dill, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
place the grated zucchini in a collander and sprinkle lightly with kosher salt. Line a strainer with a paper towel or cheesecloth and drain the ricotta. Allow the zucchini and ricotta a little time to exude their excess moisture while you prepare the pan, chop the dill, and heat the oven. Combine the ingredients, and pour into an oiled baking pan. Bake in a moderate oven for 30 to 45 minutes.
All the quantities are approximate; this is a very forgiving recipe. Stavrolakis uses a cup of parmesan and no ricotta. If you do this, do not add salt.
My Community Supported Agriculture collective has been uncommonly generous with fresh zucchini this year. Usually I just grill the slices, and let them marinate with a little balsamic vinegar.
My cherished Clotilde has recipes for zucchini stuffed with quinoa, and the polenta zucchini tart. Click on “veggies glorious veggies”
I've never made zucchini bread. It seems to me that would be admitting defeat.
Here is “
C.P. Cavafy
translated from modern Greek by Rae Dalven
When you start on your journey to
then pray that the road is long,
full of adventure, full of knowledge.
Do not fear the Lestrygonians
and the Cyclopes and the angry Poseidon.
You will never meet such as these on your path,
if your thoughts remain lofty, if a fine
emotion touches your body and your spirit.
You will never meet the Lestrygonians,
the Cyclopes and the fierce Poseidon,
if you do not carry them within your soul,
if your soul does not raise them up before you.
Then pray that the road is long.
That the summer mornings are many,
that you will enter ports seen for the first time
with such pleasure, with such joy!
Stop at Phoenician markets,
and purchase fine merchandise,
mother-of-pearl and corals, amber and ebony,
and pleasurable perfumes of all kinds,
buy as many pleasurable perfumes as you can;
visit hosts of Egyptian cities,
to learn and learn from those who have knowledge.
Always keep
To arrive there is your ultimate goal.
But do not hurry the voyage at all.
It is better to let it last for long years;
and even to anchor at the isle when you are old,
rich with all that you have gained on the way,
not expecting that
Without her you would never have taken the road.
But she has nothing more to give you.
And if you find her poor,
With the great wisdom you have gained, with so much experience,
you must surely have understood by then what Ithacas mean.
Here is a partial bibliography of Dalvenalia:
American Society of Sephardic Studies., and
———. "The Sephardic Scholar : Journal of the American Society of Sephardic Studies." v.
Cavafy, Constantine, and Rae Dalven. The Complete Poems of C. P. Cavafy.
———. The Complete Poems of Cavafy. Expanded ed.
Dalven, Rae. Modern Greek Poetry.
———. Hercules : An Original Radio Script. [
———. "The Concepts of Greek Tragedy in the Major Plays of Eugene O'neill." microform /, New York University School of Education, 1961.
———. Modern Greek Poetry. 2d ed.
———. Anna Comnena.
Dalven, Rachel. "The Betrothal and Marriage Customs of the Ioannina Jews." Sephardic Scholar 3 (1973): 41-61.
Dalven, Rachel. "The Yearly Cycle of the Ioannina Jews." Conservative Judaism 28, no. 2 (1974): 47-53.
Dalven, Rae. "(Ten Poems)." Noiseless Spider Greek Issue (1974): 7-15.
———. "Mortal Victory." Hellenic Times,
Dalven, Rachel. "The Names of the Jannina Jews." Sephardic Scholar 3 (1977): 9-23.
———. "Some Modern Greek Proverbs - Judaic or Classic in Origin?" Sephardic Scholar 4 (1982): 65-83.
———. "Three Traditional Judeo-Greek Hymns and Their Tunes." Sephardic Scholar 4 (1982): 84-101.
———. "The Yearly Cycle of the Ioannina Jews." Journal of Modern Greek Studies 2 (1987): 87-103.
Dalven, Rae. The Jews of Ioannina.
———. "An Unsought for Calling: My Life as a Translator from the Modern Greek." Journal of Modern Greek Studies 8, no. 2 (1990): 307-15.
———. Daughters of Sappho : Contemporary Greek Women Poets.
Eliyia, Joseph, and Rae Dalven. Poems by Joseph Eliyia.
Humphreys, Henry Sigurd. The Ballad of Andrew; Op. 64. [n.p.,.
Laughlin, James. New Directions in Prose and Poetry. Vol. 23.
Papageots, George, and Rae Dalven. The Story of Modern Greek Literature.
Ritsos, Giannåes, and Rae Dalven. The Fourth Dimension : Selected Poems of Yannis Ritsos.
Schat, Peter, Leonard Bernstein, Constantine Cavafy, and Rae Dalven. For Lenny, at 70 : Opus 35, a Song for Tenor and Piano, 1988.
FAQs
What is Romaniote?
The word Romaniote refers to the Yavanic, or Judeo-Greek-speaking Jews of Greece. The majority of the Jews from
What are Zucchini?
These are the vegetables called “courgettes” in the
Blah Blah Blah
"The Lady’s Shabes Mates Survival Guide" is protected by
copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. You may share it with folks if you like, but only in its entirety including this notice. Any other form of republication, unless with prior written permission of the author, is strictly prohibited. Copyright © 2005
by The Chocolate Lady.
Questions? Comments? ASK THE CHOCOLATE LADY!
Labels: peysekhdik פּסחדיק